Tlacochahuaya is a quiet little village tucked away in the heart of the
Tlacolula valley. Founded
long before the Spanish conquest, this community owes its heritage and
early language to the
Zapotecs. In its beginnings, the natives called their home Zaani. The modern
name is Nahua for
place of "damp soil". In this sleepy haven, sheltered by dramatic hills
and mountains, the heart of
the community is the market square. The dominant feature is the church
of San Jeronimo and
the accompanying monastery. San Jeronimo is the patron saint of the town.
Erected in the l6th
century over the site of a pre-conquest temple , this church dedicated
to him stands in imposing
solitude. It almost seems to gather the sleeping past around it. Even the
frescos of the early
artists have the air of ancient relics. There are grand retables flanked
by sculptures and an altar
piece honoring the image of this saint. The still vibrant colors of the
interior area sharp contrast
to the living quarters of the nearby monastery.
Legend has it that this church was the site of the wedding of Natipa, heir
to the throne of
Zaachila, the capital of Zapotazo, and Guielace, second daughter of Tivoot,
the local village
chieftain. It would seem hard to imagine a more perfect place for the wedding
to come. The
newly painted frescos of cherubs and floral designs dancing and glittering
in the candlelight and
the air heavy with the fragrance of banks of fresh flowers. The hum of
the newly arrived pipe
organ may have added to the excitement of that long ago day. With the dust
of the conquest not
yet settled over the area, some guests took exception to the presence of
the Spaniards who
had been invited. A disturbance began which quickly got out of hand. The
young bride and
groom were killed in the ensuing melée. That, of course, is one
of the legends concerning this
union. Another is that the young couple ate so much that they died. Always
the romantic, I
prefer to believe the first explanation. This lovely village is located
about twenty kilometers from
Oaxaca. The beautiful organ is still around but is rarely played except
by the occasional visiting
concert organist. September 30th begins the feast of San Jeronimo which
lasts for five days and
includes calends, fire crackers, music, dances, sports contests, game and
lots of fun. There are
also many booths selling the wonderful local dishes. This sounds like a
good time and place for
a trip off the beaten track.
This is part of an article by Rita De Melo Ferriera.