Paraguayan townspeople find the grass is greener in U.S.
BY CHRISTINA HOAG
Special to The Herald
CARAGUATAY, Paraguay -- Paraguayans need visas to travel to the
United
States but generally don't have too much trouble obtaining one
-- unless they
come from the town of Caraguatay.
The U.S. Embassy automatically gives applications from residents
of this sleepy
farming community a red flag, and turns them down more often
than not. The
reason? More than half of the residents of Caraguatay have become
illegal
immigrants in the United States over the past two decades.
``Illegal immigration from Paraguay is not a dramatic problem,''
said Jim
Dickmyer, embassy spokesman in Asuncion, the Paraguayan capital.
``But it's
very difficult for a person from Caraguatay to overcome the suspicion
that he is
going to overstay his visa, given the fact that so many of them
have.''
Caraguatayans' penchant for heading north has earned the town,
located about 60
miles east of Asuncion amid cattle-grazing plains, the moniker
Yanquilandia and
national fame that it is awash in dollars because of the cash
the immigrants send
home. The yellow-and-black logo of the town's Western Union office
stands out in
sharp contrast to the quaint Spanish colonial style whitewashed
buildings with
red-tiled roofs.
Over the years, expatriates have sent tens of thousands of dollars
for items like a
new roof and pews for the church, restoration of a deteriorated
chapel and
construction of a new playing field after holding fund-raising
events at places like
the Caraguatay Social Center in Brooklyn, N.Y., where many have
settled.
``We live better here than other towns because of [the emigrants],''
said Laudino
Miranda, district elections supervisor, who added that he is
urging his 23-year-old
son to go to the United States to join his brother.
Townspeople say the tradition got started 25 years ago when two
women made it
to ``El Norte'' and wrote home urging others to follow. About
4,500 Carataguayans
now live in the United States, out of a regional population of
7,500. ``Everyone
here has a relative living in the States,'' town priest Marciano
Toledo said.
Many immigrants sell their homes or livestock to pay up to $5,000
to obtain false
Argentine or Uruguayan papers, because citizens of those countries
don't need
U.S. visas. Or they travel to Mexico and contract a ``coyote''
to smuggle them
over the border.
Caraguatayans' renowned expertise at getting into the United States
leads
Paraguayans from other regions to come for advice on how it's
done, church
deacon Cayo Martinez said. Nevertheless, some never make it --
the death of a
young Caraguatayan who suffocated in a vehicle in the Mexican
desert made
national headlines here last year.
The danger doesn't deter many would-be migrants because the alternative
is more
than likely unemployment or low-wage work in Paraguay's sliding
economy. Last
year's estimated jobless rate of 18 percent is expected to increase
to 20 percent
this year, according to the Paraguayan-American Chamber of Commerce,
while
the monthly minimum wage stands at less than $200.
Not everyone in Caraguatay feels that emigrating is the answer,
especially when
those who enter the United States illegally are limited largely
to futures as maids,
gardeners and construction workers. Officials became alarmed
several years ago
when so many adolescents emigrated that ``suddenly we didn't
have any young
people left,'' said school district secretary and former Mayor
Veva Antunez. ``They
turned 18 and went.''
The school district started implementing programs to teach youngsters
how to
add value to farm products -- by candying fruits, for example
-- and pressing the
government for more university scholarships and industrial and
job-training
projects.
Antunez believes the push has helped to stem the emigration tide
somewhat,
although she lacks specific numbers.
``I don't hear people talking about it as much as before,'' she said.
But those who remain are sorely tempted when U.S. relatives arrive
bearing
suitcases of gifts, fancy clothes and cash for lavish parties.
Last Christmas, the
expatriates decorated a pine tree in the town square to simulate
New York's
Rockefeller Center tree for a millennium celebration.
The emigrants are also building retirement homes on a parcel of
land on the edge
of town that locals have dubbed Yankeeville. That's enough to
make many young
people want to leave their hometown, where oxcarts and farm plows
are still
commonly used.
Angela Cabratones, 17, said she and her sister plan to go to the
United States as
soon as they finish school.
``There's nothing here,'' she said.
Antunez said that attitude prevails because a myth has sprung
up about the
United States.
``I go to collect my pension in Asuncion and they say, `You don't
need it, you're
from Caraguatay,' '' she said. ``Nothing could be further from
the truth! There's no
big economic benefit for the town or for relatives. The immigrants
don't send large
amounts of money because they don't earn much.''
But with the Paraguayan economy stalled and with the legend aided
by a bit of
exaggeration, emigration is likely to continue.
``It's not good for the town, they come back very materialistic,''
Antunez said.
``We live more spiritually here.''