Where Mercy Flows
Father Richard Estrada's caravans help deliver water to the El Centro
desert,
where deadly heat has claimed the lives of illegal border crossers.
By MARY ROURKE
Times Staff Writer
Three minivans and a pickup truck pull up in front of a house on Pleasant
Street in East Los Angeles, and nine volunteers climb out to pack the vehicles
with 100 or
so gallon jugs of water stored in the carport. As they finish, Father
Richard Estrada, a tall man in jeans and a white shirt, calls everyone
together. They join hands as
he prays, "Heavenly Father, help us save lives."
It sounds melodramatic in the morning light, but by the end of the day,
the words seem prophetic. The water is bound for the El Centro desert,
where it will be left for
those crossing on foot in heat that can reach 120 degrees.
Estrada, who works with homeless people, has pulled runaway teens from
a collision course with drugs, fed women and children he finds under freeway
bridges and
served sandwiches to undocumented immigrants looking for day jobs on
street corners.
From the day laborers, and those who came to his downtown office looking
for food, he had heard harrowing stories of illegal border crossers dying
from the desert
heat. It was not hard to spot the faces of those who had survived the
passage. "I saw guys who were burned bright red," he says. "I asked them
what happened.
Then I realized—they walked here."
Estrada and several other priests had tried without success to organize
an effort to take water to the border. Then, one morning last spring, he
woke to the voice of
San Diego entrepreneur John Hunter, who was on the radio describing
a program he called "Water Station" to set up 2,000 relief points on U.S.
land that stretches
across the lower edge of California from Ogilby to Ocotillo. It was,
admittedly, a small, stopgap response to the needs generated by a massive
wave of illegal
immigration. Last year alone, Border Patrol agents in California apprehended
nearly 400,000 illegal migrants and returned them to the Mexican border.
Dealing with
the root of the problem would take governments, not water stations.
But Hunter had a feeling of urgency. "Should people be crossing the border illegally?" he asks. "No. But should we just let them die? No."
Estrada called and offered to help, becoming a regular volunteer in
Hunter's effort, which, since June 2000, has involved everyone from Boy
Scouts to state
Assembly members. So far, they have set up 300 stations in the El Centro
area, each consisting of a cardboard box filled with six or more 1-gallon
jugs of water and
a bright-blue flag flying from a metal pole.
Many of the sites are grave markers, set up where bodies were found.
Twenty-four people died of dehydration in the El Centro desert last summer,
at least 18 so far
this year. August and September are the worst months.
In the past year, Estrada has delivered more gallons of water than he
can remember. Once a month in summer, he and volunteers from San Conrado
Catholic
Mission church in Elysian Park, where he says Mass, caravan to the
tumbleweed town of Ocotillo, eight miles north of the Mexican border. There
are unscheduled
runs too. One night last month, he and a couple of friends filled a
moving van with 1,000 gallons and drove down.
Even with all he has seen in this work, Estrada starts this day with
some anticipation. "When I go to the desert to deliver water, anything
can happen," he says. "It's
beyond my control."
In Ocotillo, the group's first stop is the Desert Kitchen Café.
The volunteers Estrada has rounded up for this trip don't know each other
well, and people introduce
themselves in modest terms. No one mentions what they do for a living
or where they live. Instead, they tell where in Mexico they were born,
when they immigrated
and what their families are like. One man was married at San Conrado,
several have children who were baptized there.
"If you struggled as an immigrant, your heart is more open to other
immigrants," says Lupe Mendoza-Fernandez, in her mid-40s, who was 1 year
old when her family
emigrated from Guanajuato. She is the only woman in Estrada's group
today. "They were pushing this as man's work, too hard for women," she
says. "I'm going to
tell the other women at church it's not too hard. They should come."
Estrada's own path to the desert was less direct. Born and raised in
Los Angeles, he owned a beauty salon after high school. A girlfriend had
been a student at a
beauty school, he says. "One day I went inside. That was it; I loved
it." But nightclubbing with money in his pocket and patent-leather shoes
on his feet couldn't chase
away the idea that first came to him when he was a third-grader at
Our Lady of Lourdes in East Los Angeles. He decided then that he wanted
to be a priest, and
finally, in his mid-20s, he entered the seminary. His calling, to work
with the poor, has drawn him more and more deeply into the lives and needs
of Mexican
immigrants.
Before the burgers arrive, Roberto Rubio, a retired building contractor
in his 60s who works for Estrada in El Centro, joins the group. John Hunter,
he says, is
repairing water stations on Highway S-2, a few miles from town.
Weaving through rubble and prickly cactus, Estrada's group joins up
with Hunter's. A dozen or so cars, minivans and small trucks inch down
the two-lane highway.
Each one is packed with water, equipment and people power. The plan
is to work on the stations closest to the road. Other times, Estrada says,
he has been far
from town, surrounded by hills the color of refried beans.
At each station, the volunteers rush from their air-conditioned cars
to the site, assemble a cardboard box and fill it with jugs of water. A
group of Boy Scouts from El
Centro replaces the plastic flags that have been ripped apart by the
wind.
"It's a way to help out," says DaVillion Piper, 14, a Scout volunteering
for the first time. "Otherwise people can die of thirst." The troop leader,
Blake Miles, has been
working with Hunter for months. He invited the Scouts to join him this
time.
The young teenagers leap over razor-sharp brambles and chase each other
into gullies, even after four hours in the midday heat. Some of the older
workers have to
sit out a stop or two and rest. Estrada has tied a T-shirt around his
head.
One station finished, the desert caravan is set to roll. The group is
large by the standards of this handmade relief project. Estrada usually
brings two or three
volunteers with him on his monthly runs, and Hunter has a core of two
or three who work with him every weekend. Sometimes, like today, as many
as a dozen
others join them.
People pile into any car. One of the returning volunteers, Bill Wallace,
is a travel agent who lives in Alpine, east of San Diego. He has filled
the dashboard of his truck
with castoffs he picks out of the rocks—a child's leather sandal, part
of a transistor radio. "The other day someone found a bag of Pampers baby's
diapers," he says.
These are the constant reminders that real lives are being lost and
personal destinies played out along this dusty road.
Debate about how to deal with undocumented border crossings is as heated
as the summer sand. Tighter controls in the larger border towns, put into
effect during
the Clinton administration, have resulted in higher illegal traffic
flows through remote areas that are considerably more dangerous.
President Bush has said he wants to improve conditions, and in June
he and Mexico's president, Vicente Fox, announced a border safety pact.
The U.S. will review
tight border policies that steer migrants into dangerous territories.
Mexico will consider measures that prevent migrants from crossing through
deadly deserts and
waterways.
Hunter leaves the big questions to politicians, including his brother,
Duncan, a Republican congressman in Alpine who favors tight border controls
as well as the water
project. "The real problem," says John Hunter, "is the Mexican economy
and government, but someone else will have to take care of that."
At times he has defied the law by setting up relief stations before
he received the required permits from U.S. parks officials who control
some of the land he's
targeted near the border. "The permitting process takes weeks," he
protests.
But relations between Border Patrol agents and Hunter's volunteers have
been friendly. "We understand that they are trying to save lives," says
Manuel Figueroa, a
Border Patrol agent in the El Centro sector. "We support their intentions."
Hunter remains focused on small victories. Based on the amount of water
that is used each
week—about 100 gallons—and limited anecdotal evidence, he figures that
his group's efforts have saved at least one life, and perhaps as many as
10. Estrada wants
everyone he knows to volunteer for this work, at least once. "I'd like
to see doctors, lawyers, other professionals come with me," he says. He
has received thousands
of donated gallons of water, "but it's hard to get people to make the
trip," he says. "It's not glamorous. You drive four hours from Los Angeles,
get here, and it's hot."
The afternoon heat leaps to 113 degrees. A fierce wind flattens curly
hair and smears the eye makeup of one of the female volunteers. Now and
then members of the
group will pause to scan the nearby hills or look over their shoulders,
half expecting to see a battered figure staggering toward them. Rubio has
come across these
exhausted, dehydrated travelers. He once picked up a 17-year-old boy
who got left behind by a "coyote," the smuggler he had paid to lead him
across the border.
"He didn't have any food or water with him," says Rubio. "They never
do. They always think they will be safe without it."
Many who pay with their lives for such mistakes get hastily buried in
a pauper's grave. At Holtville, a small town a few miles from Ocotillo,
most of the graves are
marked "John Doe," the designation given the bodies by the coroner.
"People shed their clothes in the heat," Rubio says. "When the bodies are
found they have no
identification." Above most of the headstones there is a white cross
stenciled in black: "Los Olvidados," the forgotten ones.
Around 4 in the afternoon, Hunter declares the work finished for the
day. Estrada's wilted caravan pulls into the Ocotillo Motel and Trailer
Park, past the faded pink
motor homes into the backyard. Hunter is a friend of the owner, who
lets him store water in one of the trailers.
At night, the trailer park turns into a social hub. Neighbors gather
around the picnic tables to talk and drink. Long before nightfall, Estrada
starts angling for a stop at
the Lazy Lizard. He can still taste the cold beer he drank at the bar
on his last trip.
One of the volunteers, Democratic Assemblyman Juan Vargas of San Diego,
seems to take a personal interest in border issues. His parents emigrated
from Mexico
in the '40s, and he worked with orphaned children in El Salvador during
his five years in the Jesuit novitiate after high school. "In the desert
today," he says, "I
couldn't help thinking, I used to go there to pray." Now he hauls water
in a cap that reads "Do Something."It is dark by the time Estrada's group,
Hunter and Vargas
reach the banks of the All American Canal outside Holtville. This waterway
is Hunter's next target. Hundreds of border crossers have tried to navigate
it in recent
years. More have drowned here than have died in the desert.
Local farmers rely on the water to irrigate crops, but Hunter has come
to resent the peaceful-looking stream. He wants to install guide ropes
to help make the
crossing safer. In the dark canal, brightened by safety lights, a yellow
raft bumps against the near bank. Some well-prepared traveler left it there
once he was safely
across. As the three men look out at the wind-tossed water, each one
seems to be making plans. Estrada will stay close to the raw experience,
ministering to the
border crossers he meets on the streets, and those whose presence he
only senses here in the desert.
"When I was in the seminary," he says, "I read about a group of priests who worked in the factories. I said to myself, that's the way to do it. Work with the people."