Thousands pay tribute each year by walking for miles, dragging stones

By TRACEY EATON / The Dallas Morning News

HAVANA ­ Construction worker Enrique Pluma spent the day Thursday crawling through the grime and soot of Havana's crumbling streets with a huge rock attached to his ankle.

"When I was young, I couldn't walk. I asked St. Lazarus for help, and I got it. So now, every year, I give him thanks," said the 48-year-old man, sprawled bloody and weary on the ground during his torturous11-mile journey to a religious sanctuary on the outskirts of Havana.

From Dec. 15 to 18, thousands of Cubans pay tribute to St. Lazarus, a Roman Catholic saint who had a penchant for helping not only the poor and sick, but also street dogs and other defenseless animals.

They carry candles and statues. They drag heavy stones. They walk for miles and stream in from all around the island.

The socialist government hasn't always been tolerant of these religious celebrations and of St. Lazarus. But since Pope John Paul II visited the island a few years ago and met with Fidel Castro, Cuban officials have lightened up, at least a bit.

Today, Cubans are free to worship St. Lazarus, and they say he helps them get through dire economic times.

Some Cubans sprinkle perfume on statues of the saint for good luck. Others leave candles or a glass of rum at his feet.

A touch of luck and some help in getting by during tough times is what most Cubans say they want.

To be sure, the most committed St. Lazarus believers were on the streets Thursday, showing their commitment, enduring pain and fatigue.

"Right now I'm getting by on nothing more than faith and cigarettes," Mr. Pluma said.

He was among the many pilgrims making their way toward El Rincon, a sanctuary and clinic where lepers and others are treated.

Tomas Joglar, 74, shoved his body along a busy oil-soaked highway toward El Rincon. Attached to his ankle was a 100-pound rock.

"I've been going to El Rincon for 52 years," he said. "This time, I started three days ago. But I'll make it. I'll make it."