Cuba From the Porch
By Daisy Hernández
Daisy Hernández is co-editor of the forthcoming book, "Colonize
This: Young Women of Color on Today's Feminism."
Watching former President Jimmy Carter tour Cuba recently reminded me
of my first time on the island two years ago. Of course, we went under
different
circumstances. I wasn't invited or followed by the media. And although
Carter's been around longer (I was in preschool when he had the White House),
I already
knew many of the things he presumably went to learn. As the American-born
child of a Cuban exile, I grew up knowing what Carter said in Cuba: "It
is time for us to
change our relationship and the way we think and talk about each other."
Such a change, however, won't happen by just having political leaders
visit the island. It will have to occur through conversations between ordinary
people in both
countries. It was by living among my Cuban relatives and talking with
them that I got to really know Cuba. But the U.S. embargo, with its travel
restrictions, makes
such direct contact difficult for most people. While Carter was well-intentioned,
his visit still keeps the dialogue stuck between heads of states that have
been arguing
for decades.
Unlike Carter, I had a personal agenda in visiting Cuba. I wanted to
see for myself where my father grew up. He had left the island in 1961
and returned only once in
the 1970s after marrying my Colombian mother. He had worked for years
in American factories and become a thin man with a small beer belly beneath
his white
guayabera. Insisting that Cuba has only poverty, he refused to travel
with me. "You can't understand," my father tells me now. "Neither can that
Jimmy Carter. You're
not Cuban."
But I was Cuban enough for the State Department, which allowed me to
board the direct flights from New York to Havana. It's been more than 40
years of
bitterness, but takes only three hours to reach the island from New
York. The flights leave at three in the morning and are restricted to those
with family in Cuba or
permission from the U.S. government.
I was the youngest adult passenger. Everyone else on the flight had
grown up in Cuba, was over 50 and was either visiting a mother or new grandchildren.
Next to
me, a woman in her 60s with blond-dyed hair was carrying a bag of adult
diapers for her ailing mother in Havana and "this good sausage from that
Jewish deli in
Queens."
Once in Cuba, I was privileged because I could pass for native in a
place sharply segregated between locals and tourists. In Havana, with my
dark hair and eyes, I
rode the Cameo, a long pink bus attached to the front section of an
18-wheeler and I got my hair cut at a shop without a state license. These
black-market
businesses, prevalent in Cuba, are spots Carter couldn't have on his
itinerary but that showed me how many people struggle to earn a living.
And while Carter enjoyed great banquets with Castro, I had another experience
with food. Early one morning, my cousin said, "C'mon, I heard egg on the
street."
We took her ration card and ran to the shop where eggs, bread and beans
were distributed. But there were no eggs, even though she was sure she'd
heard a
neighbor shouting that eggs had arrived. There was a striking similarity
to me between people eating on rations or earning a living on the black
market in Havana and
working three minimum-wage jobs in New York to feed their families.
I also saw where my father was raised in the countryside, the hills
and sugar cane fields, the mango trees and one-room houses without running
water. While Carter
had more than 150 reporters taping his every word, I had no phone to
use with Tío Lucas, the uncle who raised my dad. So I pressed my
Walkman close to Tío
Lucas' good ear and he heard my father's taped message from New York.
"I'm sending you my daughter," my dad said. "And a white cowboy hat." I
flipped the tape
over and recorded Tío's words back to my father: "You're bald
in the picture she brought. You're getting old."
Sitting on his front porch, I told Tío how my father still smoked
cigars, and he told me how my dad had hid cigarettes as a teenager. We
talked about the revolution,
communism and blue-collar jobs in the States. Our countries have been
trapped in an ideological war, but Tío Lucas, who was in his 90s,
and I were at ease. We
wanted to hear each other's stories.
Trips like mine won't be common any time soon, given President Bush's
vow last Monday to tighten the U.S. embargo. Limiting visits to leaders
like Carter or
humanitarian-aid groups just makes it easier for both sides to not
change. It's not the same as letting ordinary Americans and Cuban Americans
travel there. U.S.
officials expressed fear of Cuba's possible bioterrorism while Carter
was away, but their biggest worry has to be that ordinary people in both
countries, if they ever
met, might have things in common.
Copyright © 2002, Newsday, Inc.